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| After being asked several times about coping these
obtuse corners, I decided to play with the task. My observation
is: Yes, it can be done. NO, I'd never do it. I think a miter
is tighter, easier to cut, and will last if it's glued well and
pressure fit. However, to those who would rather cope every inside corner...
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| This is a small mockup I made at
exactly a 135° corner
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| Unlike a 45° corner, which
is really a butt joint when it's coped, the coped piece on this
wide corner must overlap the first piece.
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| I cut the finger or sliver on the
bottom about 1/8 in. thick, and notched the first piece to accept
the sliver (same
thing I did for the 45° corner).
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| The cope fits pretty tight, though
it's still an overlay, not a sharp smooth corner! |
Cutting the Cope |
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| POSITION #1: I've developed a slightly
better system for using the coping foot. Position #1 is for the
first few cuts. My left hand is wrapped over the crown, with my
left thumb firmly on/in the hooked bottom edge of the coping foot.
This is a pretty safe way to hold the tool!
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| I backcut this cope much more than
I normally would have...
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| But didn't try to backcut it completely
on the first go round.
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| Instead, I concentrated on cutting
a clean cope (it's too easy to wander into the edge when you're
back cutting excessively).
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| POSITION #2: This is the second
position, for cutting up from the bottom of the crown. My left
hand is on the molding, my fingers reaching for and resting on
the jig-saw motor. Remember, if you ALWAYS keep two hands on the
saw, you can follow the edge much easier.
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| Nibble away at the ogee.
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| I'm still holding the saw in Position
#2. I found this technique is easier and more accurate than using
the block of wood (see
previous article under Tool Reviews). Just be sure to rest
the nose of the coping foot against the bottom of the molding
before raising the blade into the material.
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| POSITION #3: This position is really
a modified #1 hold. Believe me, the secret to using the coping
foot is where you place your hands; how you hold the saw and the
molding. My left hand is steadying the molding and the saw, but
my left thumb isn't pressed into the hook on the bottom of the
coping foot. If I only had a longer thumb on my left hand...
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| Stand the crown up flat against
the jig. Hold the saw in Position #1 and make a series of cuts into
the back of the molding. |
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| Then move the blade in short fan-like
strokes to remove the waste. The 244D blade is extremely aggressive
and works well as a file. I tried a grinder for this operation
and found it wasn't as easy to control, made too much noise, and
too much dust. Plus, I couldn't get the grinder into the details
as easily as I could the jig-saw blade.
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| Here you can see the crown is clamped
flat to the coping jig. |
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