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| I just glued and nailed the hardwood edging to the top,
though pocket screws would have been better. |
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| Without the dado and track, the leg would scissor. With
the dado and track, only one knob is needed. |
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| All
the Kreg parts are listed above. |
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| A second knob secures the sliding fence. I had to grind
down the t-bolts so that they'd fit and slide easily in
the track. |
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| The SawHelper
coupler attaches with through-bolts. Counter sink the
heads flush with the top. The edging must be removed from
around the coupler. |
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| I mounted my couplers back, and had to drill holes through
the top for the lugs. The holes penetrate the 1/2 in.
edging, which leaves the edging delicate. Some carpenters
slide the coupler forward, so the lug holes clear the
edging, as shown above. |
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| The coupler drops down on the lug plate, which is attached
to the saw. I drilled holes through the very ends of the
on-board extension wings on both my 12 in. and my 10 in
Bosch Slide Saws. The extension wings aren't the best
place to secure the wings. They flex with the wings attached,
even when retracted. See
other ideas for mounting the extension wings to the saw
stand. |
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Attaching the lug plate and two base plates to the saw
is the most confusing part of the installation.
The two base plates can be rotated and raised or lowered
in a variety of ways, which makes it easy to adjust the
height and lateral position of the lug plate. I gave up
on reading the instructions or trying to use left-hand
and right-hand base plates. I simply attached the base
plates so that they would work. Remember, you don't want
the accessory Kreg fence flush with the miter saw fence.
To prevent binding, the accessory fence should be at least
1 in. back from the miter saw fence. |
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