| (Click
here to visit David Collins' website) |
| I'll admit it. I've had a coping foot for five years and never
read the instructions. When I saw Dave Collins at the last show,
and asked him how he made it look so easy, he said:
"Gary, did you make this jig?" (see drawaing below).
Of course I shook my head, no.
"Well you're just like every other carpenter, then. You
think you know everything and don't need to read the instructions!
Make the jig and you'll never cut crown any other way."
I followed his advice--sort of. I made the jig but I still didn't
read the instructions. I called him the day before a show, planning
on demonstrating how easy the coping foot was to use, but it still
wasn't exactly easy. Sure it was a lot better than coping with
the crown lying flat, but....
"Dave," I said, "I think I'm using the wrong
blade. I've got a real coarse one on here, like you suggested,
but I think I need a fine one, like a scroll-cutting blade, but
they don't make one long--" that's when he lost his patience
and cut me off—I wasn't the only one who had called him
with THAT question.
"Gary, have you read the instructions yet?"
"No."
"Well see, that's you're problem. Use the Bosch 244 blade.
It's only got 6 teeth per inch, but you're always cutting from
the back, so the front will be clean, and the gullets on that
blade are deep, which removes the waste fast and clears the kerf
quickly, and the teeth are set extremely wide, so the kerf is
wide and you can twist that blade around and follow almost any
curve. Gary, next time, read the instructions!"
After following Dave's advice (I wish I'd just read the instructions!),
I couldn't believe how much easier it was to use the coping foot.
Here's two techniques for coping Windsor
One's Craftsman-style crown molding. |
| |
|
|
| |
|
A crown jig is easy to make and doesn't take up much room
in my van. The adjustable fence is fastened permanently to the
1x2 cleat, which is secured to the base with screws, so the
jig can be changed for different sizes of molding. Both fences
are the same height so the molding can be reversed for cutting
right-hand copes.
|
 |
| |
| I start by cutting a 45° angle on the end
I want to cope, then make a relief cut into the first fillet.
You'll notice my finger is on the trigger! THAT'S NOT THE WAY
I NORMALLY OPERATE THE SAW--I was shooting pictures of myself
while doing this. You'll have more control if you lock the trigger
down and move your hand onto the barrel of the saw, closer to
the back of the coping foot. |
 |
| |
| With the molding standing in the jig, you can see exactly how much to back cut—if
the blade is perfectly plumb, you're cutting a square butt-cut...So
tip the blade slightly back from plumb, with the handle of the
saw angled just a little under the jig, and you'll be back-cutting
plenty. I keep one finger (or my thumb) on the coping foot, to
help steady the tool.
|
 |
| |
| On this molding, start the second cut up high,
then angle down into the ogee, turning the corner as much as possible.
But don't go too far because the blade won't make it through the
whole radius. Finish that cut later, once you've reversed your
grip on the saw .
|
 |
| |
| Make all the cuts from the top down, then reverse
the saw. Cut in along the second fillet, then back the blade out
again.
|
 |
| |
| Now reverse the saw and follow the cove. Tilt
the blade forward, pivoting on the single-point of the coping
foot, then push the tool forward, climbing up the cut.
|
 |
| |
| Cut a little wide of the profile because it's
easy to back the blade down and nibble right to the edge.
|
 |
| |
| Remove the waste from the cove, then nibble
into the ogee from the bottom. I find this grip position is the
most comfortable and gives me more control. But experiment with
the tool to find the position that suits you best.
|
 |
| |
| Each time the waste is removed, you can rotate
and reposition the saw blade for the next cut.
|
 |
| |
| Nibble your way right up to the first relief
cut. Most people, including David Collins, run the motor at full
speed, so control is maximized and cutting is smoother--the saw
jumps around less. But I found a few times that slow speed helped
me nibble up on the profile line more delicately. Experiment with
adjusting the speed of the blade, too, and find what works best
for you.
|
 |
| |
| A quick and easy way to finish the cope is
with a butt cut on the bottom. To reduce tear-out, I make this
cut from the face of the molding.
|
 |
| |
| Then reverse the saw and cut back down toward
the bottom again, removing the waste.
|
|
|
| |
|
Butt cuts are okay, especially for paint-grade molding, but
if you want to cut a really clean miter... |
 |
| |
| Use a piece of scrap to back-up the bottom
edge and help control the blade. My hands tremble a lot, so I
start the cut with the back edge of the blade riding up and down
against the 1x2, then slowly feed the teeth into the molding.
|
 |
| |
| Cut the tip so it's thin, but don't make it
paper thin or the sliver will just break off when you install
the molding—
|
 |
| |
| or before you even get it up there!
|
 |
| |
| Usually the first piece of crown is up on the
ceiling already (so you don't have to hold both pieces in one
hand!). Position the cope in place, then score a line across the
butt-cut crown, using the sliver as a guide.
|
 |
| |
| Use a utility knife or sharp chisel to remove
the waste. Mortise as deep as the sliver is thick. |
 |
| |
| The finished joint looks like a clean miter
and the bottoms of both pieces are flush, without risk of breaking
off the sliver. |
