A comprehensive educational community devoted to trim carpentry, finish carpentry and architectural millwork. Hosted by nationally recognized author and finish carpentry specialist Gary M. Katz.
 
     
  Assembly & Cutting Tables  
 
Here are details on the table that Greg Burnet and I designed, after we both grew frustrated with the EZ Smart table. The EZ Smart design is a good one, but the parts weren't durable enough and didn't stand up to jobsite abuse. Greg and I borrowed some of the same features from the EZ Smart design to make these tables. These tables are NOT for sale. They're home-made jigs, just like many of the others I've made for my own use. I used this table in the Wainscoting DVD. Click here to download the Sketchup file.

 

(To see another, even more inventive assembly table, check out Tom C's design.)

I've always wanted a sturdy, durable table that would hold up over time and support full sheets and large panels, even when the uprights were extended all the way out. It took time to build, but was worth the effort. I used parts from Kreg Tool Co. :

Miter Trak
Mini T-Trak
Star Knobs & T-Bolts (couldn't locate those on the Kreg Site, but beware: Mini-Trak T-bolts must be smaller than those from Rockler or they won't fit inside the track! This is a fact.)

 

The one mistake I made was not sizing the notch in the upright appropriately. The T-Bolts from Kreg come in 1 1/4 in. lengths. The notch should leave about 3/4 of the upright remaining, which is plenty for support, and also low enough for the T-bolt to reach comfortably.
The two end supports have to swivel. The last support needs only one knob and t-bolt, but the second to the last support needs two, one to store the support onboard, and the other to lock it when extended,
 

The location of the center bolts in the last two supports is critical, so that the T-Trak will swivel without the supports hitting each other. I mounted theses supports with through-bolts and nylon locknuts. The other T-trak I screwed to the 3/4 in. Baltic birch top.

 

Layout for all the center supports isn't so critical, except I wanted a neat-looking table.
 

I used my Domino to attach the nosing to the table--so it wouldn't EVER come loose. Here I'm adjusting the Cross Stop to make multiple mortises in the plywood top.

 


All the mortises are indexed off each other, so each one is spaced precisely the same distance from the previous mortise.
 

The same set up cut mortises into the walnut nosing.

 

For the miters, I first adjusted the Trim Guide so the pieces were centered on the cutter.

 

Just like a biscuit joiner, I set the table on the mortiser at 45 degrees and clamped the pieces down. Unlike a biscuit joiner, I didn't use any layout marks and there was no dust.

 

The finished mortise and tenon joints snapped together. Trust me, I was pretty surprised, too. :)
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
     
     
   
     
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