| Here are details on the table that Greg Burnet and I
designed, after we both grew frustrated with the EZ Smart
table. The EZ Smart design is a good one, but the parts
weren't durable enough and didn't stand up to jobsite
abuse. Greg and I borrowed some of the same features from
the EZ Smart design to make these tables. These tables
are NOT for sale. They're home-made jigs, just like many
of the others I've made for my own use. I used this table
in the Wainscoting
DVD. Click here
to download the Sketchup file. |
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(To see another,
even more inventive assembly table, check out Tom C's
design.)
I've always wanted a sturdy, durable table that would
hold up over time and support full sheets and large
panels, even when the uprights were extended all the
way out. It took time to build, but was worth the effort.
I used parts from Kreg
Tool Co. :
Miter
Trak
Mini
T-Trak
Star Knobs & T-Bolts (couldn't locate those on the
Kreg Site, but beware: Mini-Trak T-bolts must be smaller
than those from Rockler or they won't fit inside the
track! This is a fact.)
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| The one mistake I made was not sizing the notch in the
upright appropriately. The T-Bolts from Kreg come in 1
1/4 in. lengths. The notch should leave about 3/4 of the
upright remaining, which is plenty for support, and also
low enough for the T-bolt to reach comfortably. |
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| The two end supports have to swivel. The last support
needs only one knob and t-bolt, but the second to the
last support needs two, one to store the support onboard,
and the other to lock it when extended, |
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The location of the center bolts in the last two
supports is critical, so that the T-Trak will swivel
without the supports hitting each other. I mounted theses
supports with through-bolts and nylon locknuts. The
other T-trak I screwed to the 3/4 in. Baltic birch top.
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| Layout for all the center supports isn't so critical,
except I wanted a neat-looking table. |
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I used my Domino
to attach the nosing to the table--so it wouldn't EVER
come loose. Here I'm adjusting the Cross Stop to make
multiple mortises in the plywood top.
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All the mortises are indexed off each other, so each one
is spaced precisely the same distance from the previous
mortise. |
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The same set up cut mortises into the walnut nosing.
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For the miters, I first adjusted the Trim Guide so
the pieces were centered on the cutter.
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Just like a biscuit joiner, I set the table on the
mortiser at 45 degrees and clamped the pieces down.
Unlike a biscuit joiner, I didn't use any layout marks
and there was no dust.
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| The finished mortise and tenon joints snapped together.
Trust me, I was pretty surprised, too. :) |
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